Magical and dreamy...that is how I would describe Venice.
We started our Italian tour in Venice -- what an awesome way to immerse oneself into a culture so incredibly different from our own existence in America. Venezia offers a unique experience with its architecture (influenced by the Byzantine eastern culture), its bounty of waterways, and its ability to romanticize each experience regardless of whether you're with a mate or not.
But let's talk food!
If you are in Italia, you must have cappuccinos!!! It's not so easy to find coffee this good in the states. I miss it already. The espresso beans are roasted to perfection, and the coffee is so soothing. Italians only drink cappuccinos in the morning, but not as an after-dinner drink as we Americans enjoy doing. Our favorite coffee shop was the Caffe del Doge. It appears that they have opened a store in Palo Alto and Manhattan. You can be sure the next time I'm in SF or NYC, I will go out of my way to find those cafes. It's THAT GOOD!
Everywhere you look, Venice is surrounded by water -- the Grand Canal, the smaller branching canals tucked between rows of homes, and then there's the Adriatic Sea. With all of this sea water surrounding Venice, you're bound to find a surplus of seafood....and indeed we did! Venice is known for its dishes consisting of seafood.
Here's our first official pasta dish in Italy. Spaghetti with clams at Trattoria Madonna. At first glance, you wouldn't think it looked so different from what we have in the U.S. But there are certain qualities of pasta which really sets it apart from anything I've ever had. The most important quality is the al-dente texture. It makes all the difference, and I will never go back to overcooked pasta ever again. The sauces are not as sweet or heavy as what we're used to back home either. One other interesting and surprising thing about pasta in Italia is that they rarely use garlic. Now that is something that I can't live without, and I will continue doubling garlic for all of my recipes!
Every morning, I would wake to the sounds of fishermen and farmers singing as they would set up their stalls in the fish market. Luckily for us, the outdoor market was just outside of our little hotel. I would visit the fish markets and stand in awe of the bounty of seafood before me. My husband had to drag me away from the stalls because I would linger and drool too long. Oh, how I wished for a stove and an oven. Branzino was everywhere I turned, and I had no way of cooking it!
But I didn't have to fret too long. We managed to wander through the narrow streets and alley-ways to find the bustling and popular Trattoria Pizzaria Nono Risorto one cold romantic evening. I was thrilled to find whole grilled branzino fresh from the fish market on the menu! FYI, branzino is also known as Italian seabass. It's a firm-fleshed fish, mild in flavor, and the bones lift right out.
Here's another shot of the outdoor market (Mercado Rialto) that I liked to visit in the mornings. Italians typically have a simple breakfast of a pastry and cappuccino. I loved my flaky croissant with Nutella every morning, but I have to admit that I craved for fruit and fiber in the morning after a while. This market definitely served that purpose for me.
Venice has a nice slow pace to it. We loved to stroll in the streets, get lost in all of the narrow side-alleyways, marvel at the architecture and history, sit in the sandwich cafes to mingle with the locals and get acquainted with the friendly owners while eating cicchetti's and prossecco.
BTW, cicchetti are small snacks served in sandwich-type bars (ex: small sandwiches, risotto balls, open faced grilled sandwiches called "toast", mixed olives, etc).
But I must say that after a day of strolling, eating, mingling, sight-seeing, museum-hopping---all of that "hard work" deserves another cappuccino. We particularly enjoyed the unique experience at the historic and famous Florian Cafe overlooking the Piazza San Marco (St. Mark's square). A fabulous way to end a lovely day in Venezia.
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